With its classic contemporary furniture, backlit panels of translucent travertine and walk-through glass box of a wine cellar at the entrance, Travertino is an undertaking in understated elegance, thanks to the British-based designers virgile and Stone. This also extends to the plate – ravioli of tuna; gnocchi with buffalo mozzarella; black truffles and grilled vegetables in balsamic vinegar.

Head chef Tommaso Maddalena’s classic Italian dishes, some entirely of his own invention, are all superbly executed, and all served with a twist that makes them distinctively Travertino. The desserts are sublime, as are the cheeses, several of them regional specialities with which many diners will not be familiar.

The Oberoi, Or Zakir Hussain Marg,

TOll 2436 3030

Olive Beach

Maybe it’s the setting, maybe it’s the menu, featuring what is universally agreed to be the tastiest Mediterranean food in town, but ever since its original incarnation in a merchant’s house in Old Delhi (this first location was a victim of Delhi municipality’s zoning laws), Olive Beach (formerly Olive Bar and Kitchen) has drawn a glamorous crowd. Now part of Hotel Diplomat, it is as popular with

the city’s culturati as it is with visiting Bollywood royalty, fashion designers and Delhi’s better-dressed media moguls (whose one goal often appears to be trying to out-drink one another). Be it the food, the cocktails or the chance to see and be seen, Olive Beach continues to be a great success for Delhi Escorts.

Hotel Diplomat, Diplomatic Enclave, 9 Sadar Patel Marg, Tall 2664 2552

Placing a heavy emphasis on seafood, which is not easy to come by in landlocked Delhi, Ploof! sources its salmon from Norway, its lobsters from Phuket and

its baby octopuses from Japan. The menu is a mixture of Creole, Mediterranean and South-East Asian flavours – some, like

the Malaysian yellow curry, more authentic than others. A consistent favourite is the sea bass in Goan masala. If none of the

dishes appeal, you can choose your own fish and have it prepared the way you like. The simple interior – think contemporary colonial casual – makes this a perfect escape from the heat and dust. Close your eyes as you savour your Death by Chocolate, and you could almost be on the veranda

of a Portuguese house in Panaji.

13 Lodi Colon V Main Market,

T 0112464 9026

Smoke House Grill

AS the name implies, Smoke House, tucked away down an unassuming side street, is devoted to all things smoked. Everything, whether it’s meat, fish, cheese or even fruit, like the apple in the apple martini,

is smoked on the premises. Downstairs, there’s a lively atmosphere among the rnanga-print panels and backlit silk walls, and the suspended tables to one side of the bar are particularly in demand. Upstairs,

the mood is calmer, with cooler colours and more formal table settings. in addition to a semi-private dining area. Start with smoked tomato and lemongrass soup, then head straight for the breaded John Dory, served on a bed of creamy leeks. Round off with a post·dinner digestif and consider the merits of buying your own smoke oven. 2 North Wing, Vipps Centre, Greater Kailash, Tall 41435530

There is something distinctly Sherman McCoy about Aura. Perhaps it’s the red neon uplighters fringing the ceiling, the charcoal tones or the stainless-steel and black leather bar stools, but the overall effect has a definite whiff of Master of the Universe about it. In a city with few respectable bars, as opposed to bars that are also restaurants, this is one spot that is unabashedly dedicated to liquid

sustenance – the harder, the better. The array of Scotches, gins and so on is supplemented by the widest selection

of vodkas in Delhi, more than 60 in all, many of which are impossible to find elsewhere. The Claridges, 12 Aurangzeb Marg,

Tall 41335133

Red crystal chandeliers and dark-wood ceiling aside, Ivy is essentially an exercise in off-whites, hence the cream-coloured panelled walls, the crisp linen tablecloths and the ivory fabric on the bar stools and chairs. The narrow entrance opens onto

a double-height dining area, longer than

it is wide, with one wall occupied by an illuminated bar and the other by a room­length bench. The raised lounge area is perfect for those who are here to be seen, and the dining area is ideal for those who like to watch them. As the rows of bottles artfully displayed above the bar attest,

Ivy is oriented to the after-dark crowd, but that should not detract from the food. The menu is decidedly international- highlights include porcini tartlets, rack of New Zealand lamb and grilled salmon with skordalia potatoes – and the portions are generous. Lotus Tower, New Friends Co/any,

Tall 41627744

INSIDER’S GUIDE

APARNA CHANDRA, FASHION DESIGNER

A diehard Delhi-ite, stylist and fashion designer Aparna Chandra says she loves her home town for its ‘architecture and culture, its greenery and chaos, its people and the exciting time it’s going through’. A haggler at heart, she is enchanted by Delhi’s bazaars:

Paharganj (Chelmsford Road) is her favourite stop for clothing, belts, Buddha statues and ‘the best hummus this side of Beirut’. For trinkets and ‘the most spectacular chana‘, she goes to the

. Tuesday Market at the Hanuman Temple (Baba Kharak Singh Marg). For street food, she visits Bengali Market(Tans en Marg).

She likes the Italian eaterie Flavors(49-54 C Moolchand Flyover Complex, Defence Colony, T on 2464 5644) for its outdoor setting and relaxed vibe, but for something sophisticated, Chandra will head to either Olive Beach(see P04S), which is known for its glam crowd and delicious Mediterranean food, or Magigue (see P047), which she appreciates as much for the chance to stroll in the gardens as she does the opportunity to eat alfresco on the terrace.

After hours generally means hanging out in Shalom (18 N Block Market, Greater Kailash, T on 4163 2280), a lounge and shisha bar that maintains a buzz but never gets too hectic. To feed the mind, Chandra visits Full Circle (sb Khan Market, T on 24655641), a well­stocked bookshop with a rooftop cafe, while for cultural events, she says nothing beats the India Habitat Centre (see p060).

For full addresses, see Resources.

ARCHITOUR

A GUIDE TO DELHI‘S ICONIC BUILDINGS

It’s no exaggeration to say that if it weren’t for Jawaharlal Nehru, New Delhi would look completely different. Independent India’s first prime minister believed the country needed to modernise, but that it should do so within a socialist, pacifist and egalitarian framework. Nehru was especially eager for Delhi to break with its imperial past – both British and Moghul – and he turned to modernism as the solution. His efforts were mostly concentrated in the ll!ea running from Chanakyapuri to Mandi House, with Lodi Road as the third side ofthe triangle, and despite later development, it is still home to some of the best modern architecture in Delhi.

Nehru’s love affair with modernism attracted some of the most famous architects of the time. Le Corbusier, Maxwell Fry and Jane Drew, Louis Kahn and Edward D Stone all came to Delhi and left their mark, as did the man who became the city’s most prolific resident foreign architect after Lutyens – Joseph Alien Stein. His cluster of buildings in Lodi, including the India International Centre (see p062) and the later India Habitat Centre (see p060), are among the best-loved buildings of that period. Obviously; it wasn’t all about foreign influence. From Habib Rahman and Raj Rewal to Shivnath Prasad, AP Kanvinde, Charles Correa and BV Doshi, India’s most talented architects have also been and continue to be at the forefront of Delhi’s architectural development.

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